Carpentry SOP Example

Pre-Hung Exterior Door Installation

Remove existing entry door and frame, install pre-hung unit, flash, insulate, and trim out.

1. Remove existing door & frameRemove interior casing by scoring the paint line with a utility knife and prying carefully with a flat bar — avoid damaging the drywall return. Remove the door slab from the frame by tapping out hinge pins. Cut through any caulk between the exterior casing and siding. Pry the existing frame from the rough opening using a reciprocating saw to cut any nails securing the frame to the jack studs. Remove all old shims, foam, and fasteners from the rough opening. Photograph the rough opening fully before proceeding.
2. Inspect & prepare rough openingInspect the rough opening framing for rot, insect damage, or out-of-plumb conditions. Replace any deteriorated framing before the new unit is installed — do not install over compromised jack studs or sill. Verify the rough opening width and height match the pre-hung unit dimensions: standard pre-hung 36x80 requires a rough opening of approximately 38"x82-1/4". Install a layer of self-adhering flashing membrane on the sill of the rough opening before setting the new unit — this is the most critical step for preventing water infiltration.
3. Set & plumb the pre-hung unitWith assistance, set the pre-hung unit into the rough opening from the exterior side. Center the unit in the opening — there should be approximately 3/4" gap between the unit frame and the rough opening framing on all sides. Shim under the threshold on both hinge and latch sides to bring the unit to level — verify with a 4-foot level. Swing the door to confirm it operates freely with no binding. Open the door and shim behind the hinge jamb at the top, middle (between hinges), and at the strike — verify the jamb is plumb with a level.
4. Fasten the unitDrive fasteners through the hinge jamb at each shim location — use 3" structural screws driven through the jamb into the jack stud. Verify the door still operates freely after each fastener. Fasten the latch jamb through shim locations the same way. Check the reveal (gap between door edge and jamb) is consistent across the full height on both sides and at the head — approximately 1/8" consistent gap indicates proper fit. Adjust shims as needed before adding the remaining fasteners.
5. Flashing, foam & weatherstrip checkInstall head flashing Z-channel over the top of the exterior casing — lap it behind the existing siding a minimum of 2". Caulk the side casings to the siding with a paintable exterior caulk — do not caulk the head casing (allow water to drain). Fill the gap between the unit frame and rough opening framing with low-expansion window and door spray foam — standard foam expands too much and can bow the jamb. Allow foam to cure fully. Check the door weatherstrip compresses evenly at all four sides when the door is latched.
6. Interior trim & hardware installationReinstall or cut new interior casing — miter corners at 45°. Secure with finish nails through casing into the jamb and stud. Fill nail holes and caulk the casing-to-wall joint. Install the door hardware per manufacturer instructions — verify the deadbolt and latch operate smoothly and the strike plate is correctly positioned for full engagement. Photograph the completed installation from exterior and interior. Advise the homeowner on hardware re-keying and deadbolt operation.